Ownership
Knife Care Guide
A well-maintained Artizan knife will outlast its owner. These are the habits that keep the edge sharp, the steel clean, and the handle sound — for decades.
Cleaning
The single most important care habit. How and when you clean your knife determines how long the edge and the steel last.
Hand wash only — never the dishwasher
Dishwashers are the fastest way to destroy a handmade knife. The combination of high heat, harsh detergents, and prolonged moisture exposure will oxidise the blade, weaken the handle material, and strip the edge geometry. Always wash by hand.
Warm water and mild soap
Use warm — not hot — water and a small amount of dish soap. Wipe the blade with a soft cloth or sponge, moving from the spine toward the edge to avoid cutting yourself. Clean both faces of the blade and the handle.
Dry immediately and completely
Water left on a blade — even for a few minutes — is the beginning of surface rust on high-carbon steel. Dry the knife thoroughly with a clean cloth as soon as you finish washing. Pay attention to the area where the blade meets the handle (the choil), where water can sit.
After acidic foods
Citrus, onion, tomato, and other acidic foods react quickly with high-carbon steel, causing discolouration and accelerating patina. Rinse and dry your knife promptly after cutting them. This is normal and does not harm the blade — but leaving acid sitting on the steel overnight will.
Never leave your knife soaking in water or in a wet sink. Even 10 minutes of soaking can begin the rusting process on high-carbon steel.
Oiling the Blade
A light coat of food-safe oil on the blade is your best defence against rust and corrosion, particularly on high-carbon and Damascus steels.
When to oil
Oil your blade after every cleaning, before any long-term storage, or any time the knife will be unused for more than a few days. A thin protective layer of oil prevents moisture from reaching the steel.
What oil to use
Use a food-safe oil — food-grade mineral oil is ideal, widely available, and tasteless. Camellia oil (tsubaki oil) is the traditional Japanese choice and works exceptionally well. Avoid vegetable or olive oils, which go rancid and will smell unpleasant on the blade.
How to apply
Apply a few drops to a clean, lint-free cloth. Wipe a thin, even film across the entire blade face — both sides — from ricasso to tip. There should be a slight sheen but no pooling or drips. Wipe away any excess.
Oiling the handle
Natural wood handles benefit from occasional oiling with food-grade mineral oil or a dedicated wood conditioner. Apply once every few months or when the wood begins to look dry. Stabilized wood and synthetic handles do not need oiling.
Storage
How you store your knife matters as much as how you clean it. Improper storage dulls edges faster and can cause damage to both the blade and handle.
Magnetic knife strip
A wall-mounted magnetic strip is the ideal storage solution for kitchen knives. It keeps blades separated, allows air circulation, and displays the knives properly. Attach the blade spine-first to the magnet, then rotate the flat of the blade onto the surface — do not drag the edge across the magnet.
Wooden knife block
A quality wooden knife block works well. Ensure the slots are wide enough that the edge does not drag against the wood when inserting and removing — dragging the edge dulls it quickly. Store blades edge-up where possible.
Edge guards for transport
When transporting a knife, always use an edge guard (also called a blade guard or knife sheath). This protects the edge from contact with other surfaces and protects you from an exposed blade in a bag or drawer.
Never loose in a drawer
A loose knife rattling in a drawer is a dulled knife. Every time the blade contacts another object in the drawer, it compromises the edge. It is also a safety hazard when reaching in blind. If drawer storage is your only option, use individual blade guards.
Long-term storage
For knives being stored for extended periods — hunting knives in the off-season, collector pieces — clean the blade thoroughly, apply a generous coat of mineral oil, and wrap loosely in a clean cloth. Store in a dry location away from humidity and temperature extremes.
Understanding Patina
If your knife is high-carbon steel or Damascus, you will notice the blade darkening and developing a mottled, grey-black surface over time. This is patina — and it is a sign of a well-used, properly maintained knife.
What patina is
Patina is a controlled oxidation layer that forms naturally on high-carbon steel through use and exposure to food acids, moisture, and air. Unlike rust — which is destructive — patina is protective. A well-developed patina actually makes the steel more resistant to further corrosion.
How patina develops
The fastest patina comes from cutting acidic foods — onion, citrus, mustard, and vinegar will darken the blade noticeably within a single use. Over weeks and months of cooking, the entire blade develops an even, dark grey character that is unique to each knife.
Forced patina
Some craftsmen force a patina using mustard, coffee grounds, or vinegar to create an even protective layer before the knife is first used. This is an aesthetic and functional choice — it gives the blade a uniform appearance and jumpstarts corrosion protection.
Rust vs patina
Patina is smooth, flat, and dark grey to black. Rust is raised, textured, and orange-brown. If you see raised orange spots, clean the area with a fine abrasive (such as a cork dipped in Bar Keepers Friend) and dry and oil the blade immediately. Light surface rust on a high-carbon blade is recoverable — it does not mean the knife is damaged.
Quick Reference
Daily Care Checklist
After each use
Hand wash with mild soap, dry immediately and completely
Before storage
Apply a thin coat of food-grade mineral oil to the blade
Regular use
Hone with a steel before or after each session
Every 12–18 months
Full sharpening on whetstones or professional service
Questions about caring for your specific Artizan knife? We're always happy to advise.